River Length: 39.2 miles. The Temperance River flows through South Temperance Lake, Weird Lake, Jack Lake, Kelly Lake, Peterson Lake and Baker Lake within the Boundary Waters Canoe Area (BWCA).
Campsites: None
Wildlife Seen on Visit: Waterfowl
Last Visited: August 12, 2023; Previous Visit(s): May 27, 2016
River Elevation: Headwaters at Brule Lake at 1834 feet. By the time the river leaves the BWCA at Baker Lake the elevation is 1745 feet. The mouth is at Lake Superior at 600 feet (the shoreline of Lake Superior is the lowest point in Minnesota). The river descends at a rate of almost 31 feet per mile averaged over its entire course.
Water Clarity: N/A
ROUTES/PORTAGES FROM THE TEMPERANCE RIVER:
To Brule Lake: Walk the 10 rod portage
To Pipe Creek: Paddle In
Temperance River
Tofte Ranger District
The rivers Ojibwe name is "Kawimbash" which means "deep hollow river". The current name was coined by Father Baraga, a Jesuit priest. The name originates from the fact that this is the only river along the North Shore of Lake Superior that doesn't have a sand bar at its mouth (Hansen, 2007). The Temperance River is mostly bad tempered all the way from Brule Lake to Lake Superior. Over its entire length of 39 miles, it loses about 31 feet per mile, dropping over many rapids and several waterfalls. The river drains a basin of nearly 200 square miles.
The Temperance River flows out of the west end of Brule Lake over a small water fall and through a short set of rapids. After a quarter mile, it flows into the eastern end of South Temperance Lake. An interesting point is that Brule Lake has two outlets. A significant portion of the lakes flow of water goes out through the Temperance River and the remainder flows out of the Brule River.
From the southern most point of South Temperance Lake, the Temperance River continues southward toward Weird Lake. A long portage of 240 rods parallels the western shore of the river through the first part of this section. The river is frothy through here with many sets of rapids. At the end of the portage is a short section of river that can be paddled. The river is wider here. Another portage of 80 rods is soon required. The start of this portage is just above another long set of rapids and is found on the right side as you paddle downstream. Hug the right shore as you come up to the portage for safety. The 80 rod portage ends at Weird Lake. Weird Lake is where the Vern River flows in from the east. There is one campsite on Weird Lake near to where the Temperance River leaves the lake.
Shortly after leaving Weird Lake, the Temperance River starts to churn again and another short but tricky portage over a slab of smooth rock is required. This portage is only 12 rods, but footing can be treacherous here if the treadway is wet on the downriver end. Following the river southward for a short spell brings you to yet another lake. This is Jack Lake. Jack Lake has two campsites. The south end of Jack Lake has an easy 65 rod portage to Kelly Lake. Kelly Lake is sort of a longer/narrower version of Jack Lake. There is one campsite on the north end of Kelly Lake and four more campsites clustered together on the south end of the lake. Kelly Lake has a long up-and-over portage of 230 rods to Burnt Lake. This is the route to take if you are heading to Sawbill Lake.
Finally, the Temperance River flows out the south end of Kelly Lake and into Peterson Lake. There is a 3 rod portage on the map here, but sometimes this can be skipped depending on water levels. Peterson Lake has one campsite. A 10 rod portage is necessary to continue downriver into Baker Lake. From Baker Lake the Temperance River passes out of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area on its way to Lake Superior and Temperance River State Park. Baker Lake is the location of BWCA Entry Point #39.
Logging commenced for a short period around South Temperance Lake after the closing of the East Tofte Sale in 1961 (Heinselman, 1999).
References:
Beymer, Robert, Boundary Waters Canoe Area – Volume 2 – Eastern Region (Berkeley: Wilderness Press, 2006), 58, 65, 68, 72, 79, 86.
Hansen, Mary Alice, Sawbill: History and Tales (Tofte: Sawbill Press, 2007).
Heinselman, Miron, The Boundary Waters Wilderness Ecosystem (Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 1999), 11, 13.
Pauly, Daniel, Exploring the Boundary Waters (Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2005), 252.
Traveling the Temperance River (downstream)
Follow the Temperance River downstream from its headwaters at Brule Lake until it reaches Baker Lake, where it passes out of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area.
This is the start of the Temperance River right where it flows out of the west end of Brule Lake beginning its journey to Lake Superior 39.2 miles downstream (May 27, 2016).
A view down the rapids where the river flows out of Brule Lake along the portage (August 12, 2023).
Short portage from Brule Lake around some rapids to the Temperance River (August 12, 2023).
Older video footage of this portage (May 27, 2016).
Temperance River looking downstream from the Brule Lake portage. The rapids that necessitated this portage are visible to the left (May 27, 2016).
From the Brule Lake portage, paddle a short stretch of the Temperance River downstream until it widens into South Temperance Lake (May 27, 2016).
Paddling across beautiful South Temperance Lake to the next portage. Take your time enjoying this lake. You start from where the Temperance River flows into the lakes east end, finishing at the beginning of the long 230 rod portage that will take you back to the river (May 27, 2016).
A view of the Temperance River from the 230 rod portage that follows the river south of South Temperance Lake (May 27, 2016).
The only thing difficult about this portage is its length. The portage starts at South Temperance Lake. From there, it goes downhill until reaching the Temperance River. The tread is in good shape with few obstructions. There are some nice views of the river along the portage (May 27, 2016).
End of the rapids to the left of the portage landing on the Temperance River. From here you'll paddle to the right, continuing downstream (May 27, 2016).
From the end of the South Temperance Lake portage, paddle downstream along the Temperance River until you reach the portage to Weird Lake. The rapids at the start of the Weird Lake portage are somewhat blind coming from upstream of the portage, so caution, especially in spring when the water is swift (May 27, 2016).
Upstream view of the Temperance River from the start of the Weird Lake portage. The head of the rapids is visible at your right (May 27, 2016).
A scenic portage along the frothy Temperance River downhill to Weird Lake (May 27, 2016).
View of Weird Lake from the portage (May 27, 2016).
Paddling from the Temperance River portage to the mouth of the Vern River (May 27, 2016).
From the mouth of the Vern River, continue the route across Weird Lake. On the otherside of the lake, re-enter the Temperance River as you pass by Weird Lake's only campsite (May 27, 2016).
A short paddle from where the Temperance River flows out of Weird Lake, downstream to the next portage (May 27, 2016).
A nice walk right along the rapids. Portage is 12 rods long. The downstream end of this portage can be a little tricky, as the water is deep and there is some current (particularly for those in solo canoes without the benefit of a steadying hand) (May 27, 2016).
From just below the rapids, continue paddling downstream along the Temperance River through the rain. The river finally gives way and you paddle into the north end of Jack Lake (May 27, 2016).
Paddling from the north end of Jack Lake just after leaving the Temperance River, southward toward the Kelly Lake portage. The paddle takes you between the two large islands in the north end of the lake. (Video ends early about 1/3rd mile north of the Kelly Lake portage - you can see this part of the lake in the photos below.) (May 27, 2016).
The narrow notch in the distance (looking south) is the location of some moving water which will require some minor navigation skills to get through to avoid hanging up your canoe on an underwater boulder (May 27, 2016).
You are standing at the south end of Jack Lake, at the start of the Kelly Lake portage. The view is to the north. The notch you passed through just before arriving at this portage, where you found some quick water, is in the center of your view (May 27, 2016).
The upper part of Kelly Lake is pretty shallow and can get very weedy in the summertime. Here in late May, the lily pads are only just starting to reach the lakes surface (May 27, 2016).
Starting from the Jack Lake portage, paddle south down the long length of Kelly Lake. The atmosphere is misty and the rain has become fairly steady. Through the rain, the route generally follows the western shoreline until reaching the portage to Burnt Lake (May 27, 2016).
The section of the Temperance River downstream of Kelly Lake will be added soon.
To continue along the Temperance River route, paddle from the Burnt Lake portage to the south end of Kelly Lake. At the south end of the lake, there is a 5 rod portage to Peterson Lake (the portage can be skipped if the water level is high). Once on Peterson Lake, paddle to the very south end of the lake where you'll find the portage to Baker Lake. This is a 35 rod portage. Paddle across Baker Lake to BWCA Entry Point 39 where you can exit the BWCA. Downriver of Baker Lake, the Temperance River continues its journey outside of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area. The river eventually flows into Lake Superior in Temperance River State Park.
